What is Engineered Flooring?

June 25th, 2012
by admin

Engineered flooring

Engineered flooring has a thin top layer of real wood like oak, but that’s just a wood veneer skin. Underneath are more thin wood layers, all glued together to make a plywood sandwich called engineered flooring.

Engineered wood floors have improved in appearance and performance, Available in dozens of wood species and with new surface effects and textures. These boards now look just right in any space new or old, classic, traditional or modern.

Most boards come with a factory finish that’ll outlast one applied in your home on solid wood, boards are also problem-solvers, allowing you to use them where solid strips often can’t go, like in basements or directly over concrete slabs. Even better, DIY and homeowners can lay the boards themselves, saving a fortune on professional installation costs and getting great looking results.

Care and Maintenance

Mop with a microfiber cloth and wood floor cleaner to remove the dirt that scratches the finish and shortens the floor’s life.
WHERE TO INSTALL IT
Engineered flooring goes anywhere you’d put solid wood—and some places you couldn’t.
The moisture that gathers in certain areas effect solid wood floorings. Because the veneer layers used for engineered boards crisscross like plywood, the wood’s natural tendency to expand and contract in humid areas is reduced.

Over Radiant Heat

Thinner engineered boards transfer heat better than thick solid wood and are more stable. Floating floors are best because they don’t need staples or nails that might puncture wires or hot-water tubes. Check with the radiant system’s manufacturer before using a foam underlay, which interferes with heat flow.

Where Not to Use It

While engineered flooring handles moisture better than solid flooring, it has limitations. The wet from above like bathrooms and shower rooms put even the best engineered floors at risk. The same for wash rooms.

Hard and Soft floors

The harder the top layer the more resilient it is to dents and the longer it’ll keep its like-new looks. But hardness isn’t the only factor. Dense woods with less grain, like maple, show dings more readily than a slightly softer wood with a bold grain. Floors with little or no gloss are better at hiding scratches and wear.

Engineered, Laminate or Solid Wood

Laminate: It may look real, but that’s actually a photo of wood you’re standing on. A paper image is embedded in resin, glued to fiberboard, and coated with a protective finish. A surface embossing mimics wood’s texture. Laminate flooring is about as thick as engineered, so you can lay it over existing floors, but once a laminate’s top coat wears away, it’s toast; it can’t be refinished.

Solid Wood: Sawn boards interlock with a tongue on one edge and a groove on the other. Because the boards expand and contract so much, they must be fastened to a subfloor and can’t be laid directly over concrete, like engineered and laminate. A ¾-inch-thick wood strip can be refinished up to 10 times, compared with three for the best engineered and none for laminate

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